Le Perche has more good restaurants than it has any right to. A region of 80,000 people, mostly villages, surrounded by farmland and forest. And yet in the past few years, a wave of Paris-trained chefs has opened here, joining the country auberges and bistros that were already holding things down. The result is a dining scene that would be impressive in a city, let alone a stretch of rural Normandy most people outside France have never heard of.

We have not tried all of these yet. That is the honest answer. But we have done the research, talked to people who live here, read the menus, and built a list of the places we are most excited to eat at this year. We have been to a couple already. The rest are ahead of us. As we work through them, we will update the blog. For now, here is where we are starting.

The Neo-Bistro Wave

Three Paris-trained chefs have set up shop in Le Perche in recent years. This alone would be a story. That all three are doing serious, personal cooking in converted farmhouses and village auberges makes it a better one.

D'une Ile, Remalard-en-Perche

Bertrand Grebaut and Theophile Pourriat ran Septime and Clamato in Paris, two of the most talked-about restaurants of the past decade. They are now in a restored 17th-century hamlet outside Remalard, cooking daily-changing menus with whatever the garden and local farms provide. The setting alone puts it at the top of our list: eight hectares of grounds, a swimming pond, an orchard. This is the reservation we are making first. duneile.com

Oiseau Oiseau, Preaux-du-Perche

Sven Chartier left Saturne in Paris to open this place in a converted farmhouse. We went for a taco night last year and it was very good: pared-back Scandinavian interior, pale wood, clean lines, and cooking that takes its ingredients more seriously than its decor. Farm-to-table, a wood-burning stove doing much of the work, natural wines. We liked it enough that we are going back this year to try the regular menu. oiseau-oiseau.fr

Sauge, Auberge Percheronne, Reveillon

Chef Amandine Chaignot's auberge in the village of Reveillon. This is the fine-dining option in Le Perche: precise, seasonal cooking in a classic Percheron building. By all accounts, a proper destination restaurant. We are saving this one for the right occasion. sauge-aubergepercheronne.fr

The Village Spots

Cafe des Amis, Boissy-Maugis

A classic French bistro run by Patricia and Arnaud in a village where you would not expect to find one. Daily-changing menus, honest portions, and apparently excellent Negronis. The kind of place that keeps coming up in conversation when you ask locals where they actually eat. Lunch is supposed to be the move. No website, but you will find them on Instagram.

La Vie en Rouge, Mortagne-au-Perche

Lou's place in Mortagne. Saucisson sec, cheese boards, simple dishes. The sort of spot people describe as somewhere you drop in without a reservation and leave happy. On the list for a casual evening when we do not want a three-course production. Find them on Instagram.

Glou Glou / La Verticale

Wine bistro on the main square. The team buy their produce at the Thursday market across the street, so the menu is never the same two weeks running. The cooking is honest, seasonal and consistently good. But what sets this place apart is the wine list, one of the best selections in Le Perche, chosen with real care. In summer, the terrace and garden out back are where you want to be. Run by Isabelle Darroman (restaurant) and Pascal Thiefin (cave). We eat here often and it never disappoints. Find them on Instagram.

The Destination Tables

La Maison d'Horbe, La Perriere

Part restaurant, part tearoom, part flea market, part B&B. On paper, doing this many things at once is a warning sign. But the menu sounds better than it should: duck foie gras, salmon tartare, white truffle scrambled eggs. There is a baroque dining room and a summer courtyard. We plan to combine lunch here with a walk around La Perriere. lamaisondhorbe.com

Maison Ceronne, Sainte-Ceronne-les-Mortagne

A minimalist guesthouse with a restaurant serving shared plates. The design is what caught our attention: 1960s-80s designer furniture, two pools, a Nordic bath. People who have been say the food matches the setting. We want to see if that is true. Probably worth combining with a night's stay. maisonceronne.com

Les Pres, Saint-Hilaire-le-Chatel

A former hunting lodge and convent turned hotel-restaurant. Run by Stephane Renaud and Eric Brossard. The grounds sound beautiful: centuries-old trees, gardens, the Hoene river running through. We are curious about the cooking and whether the service lives up to its reputation. hotellespres.com

Le Silo Cave, Mortagne-au-Perche

Not a restaurant, strictly speaking. Marie Verlhac and Valentin Le Cron run a wine bar and cafe focused on natural and biodynamic wines, with coffee from Noiram roastery. This is the place we will probably visit first, because it is exactly the kind of low-key, well-curated spot we gravitate towards. Good for an afternoon glass or a pre-dinner apero. Find them on Instagram.

The Classics

Villa Fol Avril, Moutiers-au-Perche

A 19th-century coaching inn doing traditional French cooking. Slate board menus, exposed beams, a heated pool in summer if you are staying over. It has been around for a while and the reputation is steady. On the list for a Sunday lunch. villafolavril.fr

Domaine de Villeray, Sablons-sur-Huisne

The gastronomic option by the river. White tablecloths, formal service, a wine list with depth. Old-school French dining. Not for every night, but for the right occasion, this is where we will go. domainedevilleray.com

A Few Notes

This list will change. We will update it as we eat our way through. Some places will earn a longer write-up. Others might disappoint. That is the point of doing this honestly rather than pretending we have already been everywhere.

Booking. The neo-bistro places (D'une Ile, Oiseau Oiseau, Sauge) reportedly fill up fast. Book at least a few days ahead, more on weekends and in summer. The village spots you can likely walk into.

Lunch vs. dinner. Many restaurants here serve both, but some close certain days or only open evenings on weekends. Check before you drive. It is not Paris.

Price. From what we can tell, a lunch menu at a village bistro runs 15 to 25 euros. The neo-bistros are 40 to 70 for a full meal. Sauge and Domaine de Villeray go higher. Le Perche does not seem expensive by any standard.

Wine. The natural wine scene is growing here. Le Silo Cave is the hub, but D'une Ile, Oiseau Oiseau, and Maison Ceronne all reportedly pour interesting bottles.

Getting around. These restaurants are spread across a wide area. A car is essential. Nothing is far, but nothing is walkable either.

We will report backand tips are welcome as always.

Photo credit: Sauge, Auberge Instagram